Usually, during my summer holiday in Croatia, I spend a few days crossing the border. This time, I decided to be a tourist in my own country. It’s a tough choice when you’ve already been almost everywhere. Since I visited Brač for a day last year and loved the island vibe, I wanted to go to another island this time. I also wanted a luxury hotel where I could enjoy a nice wellness treatment. That’s how I ended up choosing the island of Krk, in the Kvarner region, about 400 kilometres from Trogir.
I was a bit apprehensive about the trip, mainly because of the distance. Should I take the motorway or the coastal route? I chose the motorway, as it’s faster and a smoother drive. After about two hours of driving, it was time for the daily kava, and to really feel the Croatian culture, I decided to stop in the town of Gospić. A very small town where time seems to have stood still and where you certainly won’t find any tourists. It’s a place where you can still see traces of the war from the 1990s. I found it very moving. It was also wonderful to be among the locals and join in with their rhythm of life.
After my coffee, I continued driving through the mountains towards the coast, where I then made my way to Krk. Krk is one of the few islands in Croatia that you can reach without taking a ferry. You simply drive onto the island via the Krčki most, a bridge. My hotel is located on the edge of the town of Malinska, with a view of the city of Rijeka on the mainland. What a lovely hotel! On arrival, we were allowed to set down our bags, which the receptionist took up to our room, while we headed to the pool for a welcome cocktail. After that, we enjoyed some wellness treatments and a swim in the pool. For dinner, we took a walk of about 30 minutes along a seaside path. We had a delicious meal at Primorska Koliba, a seafood restaurant with great reviews. We ended the day in the centre of Malinska with another drink before walking back to the hotel.
The next day, we started with an à la carte breakfast. The dishes were prepared with an exclusive touch, using local ingredients such as cheese from a nearby island and an olive cream. A perfect start to the day.
For today, I made a plan for what we wanted to see on the island. We began with a visit to the Haludovo Hotel in Malinska. It’s now a derelict building, but it used to be a luxury hotel built during Tito’s era. Later, it was used to house refugees from the Yugoslav wars. At that moment, I realised I have a book at home called ‘The Hotel Tito’, which is about the Haludovo Hotel in Malinska! I haven’t had the chance to read it fully yet, but I’m definitely going to do so once I’m back in the Netherlands. It’s quite intriguing to read about the history of a place you have actually visited. I’ve read more books on this subject and could dedicate a blog to it, but for now, back to the Haludovo Hotel😊. It felt strange walking around an abandoned building, knowing what it had once been used for. Although I found it fascinating, I also felt a bit uneasy. There were things hanging loose from the ceiling, the atmosphere was grim, and it was quite chilly inside. After about five minutes, I’d seen enough and decided it was time to visit the largest town on the island: Krk!
Although it is the largest town on the island, Krk is still quite small in itself. We walked towards the town centre along the riva (promenade). It’s nice to visit the Frankopan Castle and the church at the top of the town. There are no high-street shops, only local stores selling regional products, naturally geared towards tourists.
By lunchtime, the temperature had risen, so we drove from Krk to Baška Beach for some lunch and a swim in the sea. The route is beautiful, taking us from an urban setting into nature: from high, lush mountains to barren landscapes often described as a ‘moonscape’. Once we arrived in Baška, it quickly became apparent that the area is geared towards tourism, so my visit there was brief. After a swim in the sea, we drove along a very narrow road to a cemetery built into the mountainside. From here, there is a lovely view over the bay and the surrounding area.
Next, it was time to continue driving towards Vrbnik, a small village on the other side of the island. This side of the island is known for its many vineyards growing the Žlahtina grape. It could be enjoyable to book a wine tasting here, though I mostly enjoyed the beautiful views from the car.
The centre of Vrbnik is car-free and very picturesque. We navigated through the old streets to reach the church, the focal point of the village, and were rewarded with a beautiful view of the Croatian mainland. After a quick photo op, we proceeded to the world’s narrowest street, also for a photo. We finished with a coffee at a charming little square before starting our journey back to Trogir.
If you’re holidaying in Istria or the Kvarner region, be sure not to miss a visit to Krk!
