Trebinje through the eyes of Ivana

Why Trebinje?

Ivana visited various Balkan countries with her family over the summer. Trebinje was not necessarily on the route they were taking, but her friends were very enthusiastic about it. Moreover, Ivana saw a video about Trebinje from a well-known Balkan YouTuber. He said there is a nice Mediterranean vibe and that there aren’t thousands of tourists. “That was the deciding factor for me. I thought: Oh, that sounds interesting. And if he recommends something then, it’s often good.” It is also called the sunniest city because it has the most hours of sunshine. That’s a nice added bonus.

“A real Mediterranean feel, vibe and look.”

What immediately caught you attention in Trebinje?

“The first thing I noticed was the market (Trg Slobode), which takes place every weekend. In August, it took place every day of the week, though a bit smaller than on weekends. It is a wide market square, with trees and cafes surrounding it. In the middle of the square, locals sell their products, for example flowers, cheese, fruit and vegetables. Most cafes had TV screens, because here – as in the rest of the Balkans – people love sports. So everyone could follow the Olympics.”

According to Ivana, Trebinje is different from other cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina because it is located at the very southern tip. “This makes you feel like you could be in Croatia or Dalmatia. And it is a beautiful city that is not too big, it is well maintained and it has beautiful old buildings. It is very Mediterranean, in both feel, vibe and look. It’s picturesque and relaxed and has that ‘la dolce vita’ look you see in movies set in Italy. You can really unwind here.” And there were tourists, but the place doesn’t get flooded with them. “During the day it was not crowded because people were out and about or inside because it was warm. In the evening, it was a bit busier because that’s when people go out for diner. But the tourists were nice, maybe they were locals from other Balkan countries.”

What did you not know about Trebinje?

An editor once wrote an article about Trebinje for Balkan locals, which was mostly about its history and the fact that it has the most hours of sunshine. “Apart from those sunshine hours, I didn’t know much about it.” Ivana also didn’t know that they have a lot of vineyards there. “Because of its perfect climate, it is known for its wines, such as Žilavka. I drank this wine quite a few times and thought it was very tasty. Since the city is known for this, I would like to do a tour at a vineyard when I go back.”

What are your recommendations?

1. In the evening, stroll along the Trebišnjica River to the Arslanagić Bridge. “This one dates back to the 16th century, from the Ottoman period. There is so much history behind it, I can totally let my imagination run wild. On the walk, you first come across the more modern Kameni Most bridge and if you keep walking you will see the old bridge. We did the walk in the evening, as it was cooler and darker. You can see the beautiful houses in the hills thanks to all the lights. And it was romantic and quiet because you are further away from the city centre. So if you want to impress someone, I highly recommend this.”
2. Go to the market to see and buy local products, for example for your breakfast. Located at the square is also Hotel Platani, where you can eat delicious pancakes. “This was my favourite place. It’s also a nice place to drink a coffee, for example, while watching all the passers-by.”

1. Right by the water is restaurant Humsko. “The restaurant had a nice interior and old thick walls. The food was local but slightly more modern, very tasty. And you can see the Kameni Most bridge whilst you eat.” Furthermore, Ivana recommends Tarana Plus, Trebinjska Kuhinjica, and Dučić’s View for dinner.
2. Go to the Herzegovina museum. “There were photo exhibitions by local artists. And exhibitions about the history of Trebinje with replicas and real furniture. Sometimes you were allowed to touch this, which I’m not used to at museums. You get a good idea of how life in Trebinje developed from the Middle Ages to the present day. About how people lived, their customs, their clothes.”
3. This city with the most hours of sunshine is unfortunately not located by the sea. But if you want to cool down, you can swim in Bregovi, an artificial pool with water from the river. Here you don’t have to deal with strong currents and the water is a bit warmer than the water of the river. “I also went in there for a short while, up to my waist. I have also swum in other places in Bosnia where rivers are cold, but this was really next level. At one point my skin really started to hurt. It’s perfect for the Wim Hof method. Later, I read that the river flows partly underground and that’s why it’s colder.” You also have nice views of the mountains surrounding the city here.
4. “When we were there, there was a film festival. In all sorts of surprising places, such as in the courtyard of a 1970s hotel (with red carpet inside and the smell as if it was from Tito’s time period) or outside at a cultural centre, they were showing cult films from all over the Balkan region. It was free, which I thought was special. After the films, there was sometimes a band playing music, which was very nice! A few weeks later there would also be a jazz festival, so they organise a lot in the summer. The cultural offer is fun and up to standard.”
5. Visit the Hercegovačka Gračanica monastery for panoramic views of the city and visit the Church of Archangel Michael for great views.
6. “I don’t say this often, but go shopping. Trebinje has cute little boutiques with summer dresses, other beautiful clothes and leather shoes. I bought 3 dresses there myself and if I had had more room in my suitcase, I would have bought more.”
7. Are you staying longer? Then you can also book a day trip to Dubrovnik or visit Herceg Novi in Montenegro. There are lots of beaches there. The Bay of Kotor is also there, which Kim has told us about before (read her story here).

What is your fondest memory?

“The stroll along the river to the Arslanagić bridge was very peaceful and everything was right that night, so that’s my best memory. I also found the people very relaxed and it was easy to talk to them (I speak the language, of course, so that’s even easier). I can see myself coming back here again.”