Sarajevo, a city steeped in history and brimming with charm, holds a special place in the heart of Dutch journalist and documentary filmmaker Marjolein Koster. Having travelled to the Balkans for years, she shares stories from this fascinating region with a passion that captivates her audiences. In an interview with Ivana from Balkanlocals, Marjolein reveals her deep connection to Sarajevo—a city that feels like a second home to her. Discover what keeps her coming back and explore her top tips for 36 unforgettable hours in Sarajevo.
You’re a journalist and documentary filmmaker with a strong focus on the Balkans. Where did your interest in this region originate?
“My interest in the Balkans began somewhat by accident about ten years ago. I was on an interrail trip through Europe, and the Balkans weren’t exactly on my radar. But once I got there, I was immediately captivated by the culture, the people, and the complex history. It felt incredibly familiar and yet so different. From that point on, I kept wondering why there was so little attention for this region. The wars of the 1990s were a closed chapter during my youth, and we learned very little about them. But the region has so much more to offer than just its troubled past.”
In which countries are you mainly active, and what kind of stories are you working on?
“Right now, my focus is on Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo, and Serbia. I aim to tell stories beyond the typical political or conflict-driven narratives. For example, I cover topics such as the energy crisis and the impact of hydropower plants. I believe there are many stories here that deserve to be told—stories that go beyond the region’s history of war. It’s a rich, vibrant part of the world that merits more diverse representation.”
Is there a place in the Balkans that holds special meaning for you, and if so, why?
“Definitely Sarajevo. From the moment I first flew there, I felt a certain excitement I can’t quite explain. The city has been through so much, yet it radiates positivity. The people are incredibly warm and open. You can feel the history in every street, but there’s also a remarkable sense of resilience. That combination keeps drawing me back.”
Which Balkan city or town has surprised you the most, and why?
“Pristina, the capital of Kosovo, really took me by surprise. It’s not known for major landmarks, but it has an amazing atmosphere. In summer, the city comes alive with bustling terraces, music in the squares, and a relaxed energy I didn’t expect. Kosovo has a very young population, so it sometimes feels like the entire city is a university campus.”
Have you lived in the Balkans for an extended period, and what was that experience like?
“Yes, I spent some time living in Sarajevo as a freelancer. I wanted to immerse myself in the culture, learn the language, and become part of the community. It allowed me to uncover stories I wouldn’t have found if I had only visited for short trips. It felt good to truly live there, not just work there.”
Click here for 36 hours with Marjolein and experience Sarajevo like a true local.
Which local tradition or custom in the Balkans do you find most fascinating, and why?
“What strikes me the most is the coffee culture. Everywhere in the Balkans, you’ll see people sitting for hours over a coffee—it’s almost a ritual. They really take their time to chat and enjoy the moment. I’ve noticed it a lot in Sarajevo and Belgrade. It’s such a contrast to the fast-paced lifestyle I’m used to in the Netherlands. I love that sense of slowing down.”
What’s the best local dish you’ve tasted in the Balkans, and where can people find it?
“I’m a vegetarian (laughs), so I miss out on a lot of traditional meat dishes. But one dish I love is satarash—a mix of sautéed peppers and tomatoes. It’s often served as a side dish, but I eat it as a main, usually with rice. It’s simple but so flavourful. I often find it in restaurants in Bosnia and Serbia.”
Is there a place you always return to?
“For me, it’s Sarajevo. Every time I go back, it feels like there’s something new to discover. The combination of history, culture, and nature makes it truly special.”
What would you say is an underrated gem in the Balkans?
“The Tara River in Montenegro is absolutely one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited. The nature there is pristine, and you hardly see any tourists. It feels like true wilderness, yet it’s still relatively accessible. I hope it stays that way for a long time because it’s one of the last untouched natural areas in Europe.”
Is it true that travelling in the Balkans is unsafe, as some stereotypes suggest?
“No, that stereotype is completely false. I’ve always felt safe travelling in the Balkans. Of course, you need to be cautious, just as you would anywhere else, but overall, it’s a region where travellers are welcomed with open arms. The stories about danger are often outdated and don’t reflect reality.”
What are your plans for 2025, either for travel or work?
“As a freelance journalist, I travel to the Balkans every two to three months. In the coming period, I’ll be working on stories about Bosnian Dutch people, which means I’ll be spending time both in the Netherlands and in Bosnia. I also have a trip to Kosovo planned. Even though these trips are for work, I always try to set aside at least a day to explore the mountains and enjoy the stunning natural landscapes.”
