Sarajevo, a city rich in history and irresistible charm, holds a special place in the heart of journalist and documentary filmmaker Marjolein Koster. For years, she has travelled across the Balkans, sharing stories from this captivating region. For Balkanlocals, Marjolein reveals her favourite spots and insider tips for an unforgettable 36 hours in Sarajevo.
Day 1: A Glimpse into History and the Magic of Sarajevo’s Old Town
Start your day with a visit to Galerija 11/07/95, a powerful museum that immerses you in the city’s recent history. Continue to the War Childhood Museum, where personal stories of children affected by war are movingly brought to life. Both museums are guaranteed to leave a lasting impression.
After these thought-provoking experiences, it’s time to unwind. Marjolein recommends enjoying a cup of traditional Bosnian coffee or tea at Dzirlo or the stylish Ministry of Ćejf, both located in Baščaršija, the historic heart of Sarajevo. Stroll at your leisure through the narrow streets of this iconic district, lined with charming shops, mosques, and lively cafés.
In the mood for something sweet? Marjolein insists that an ice cream from Marshall’s is a must! As the day winds down, head to one of her favourite spots, the Žuta Tabija (Yellow Fortress). With a drink in hand, watch the city transform under the glow of the setting sun—a truly magical sight.
Day 2: Adventure on the Hillside and a Taste of Sarajevo
Begin your morning with a cable car ride on the Žičara to the top of Mount Trebević. Here, you’ll find one of Sarajevo’s most unique landmarks: the abandoned bobsleigh track from the 1984 Winter Olympics. Overgrown with graffiti and nature, it’s a surreal and photogenic spot, perfect for a leisurely exploration. Feeling adventurous? You can also hike to the top, a trek that takes around an hour and a half.
Back in the city, it’s time for a culinary journey. As a vegetarian, Marjolein is particularly fond of Zara iz Zuvara, also known as ‘The Singing Nettle’. This restaurant specialises in creative nettle-based dishes, from stews to rakija. “The owner is amazing, and there are plenty of vegetarian options,” Marjolein says enthusiastically.
Prefer a trendier vibe? Try Blind Tiger for cocktails and burgers, or head to Klopa for a satisfying lunch. For a more traditional experience, Avlija and Barhana are top picks. “I’m not a fan of meat-heavy dishes, but if you want to experience authentic local cuisine, these are great choices,” she advises.
Evening Hotspots
Sarajevo truly comes alive at night. Marjolein highlights two iconic bars you simply can’t miss: Zlatna Ribica, an eclectic treasure trove of curiosities, and the Festina Lente Pub, known for its relaxed atmosphere. If you’re curious about Sarajevo’s Olympic history, visit Vučko Pub, named after the 1984 Winter Games mascot. For a more upscale experience, the S One Sky Lounge offers stunning views of the city skyline while you enjoy a cocktail.
Bonus: A Trip to Grbavica
If you have extra time, Marjolein suggests venturing beyond the tourist hotspots. A scenic bike ride along the river will take you to Grbavica, a post-socialist neighbourhood known for its stark, concrete architecture. “It’s a striking contrast to the charming old town,” she explains.
With these insider tips, you’ll experience the very best of Sarajevo—a city that not only captivates your senses but leaves a lasting impression on your heart.
